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Mae Salong
Small, charm, nice climate, near Myanmar border with many Chinese is this place called “Mae Salong” |
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Mae Salong, or 'Santikhiri' (Hill of Peace) as it is sometimes called, is a small town perched high on the mountains some 1800m above sea level, and approximately 80 kms northeast of Chiang Rai city. The high altitude of the village means that it is characterised by a cooler climate than most of Thailand, and its third name is aptly 'Little Switzerland'. If you visit Mae Salong in the right season, you will be treated to the sight of spectacular blooming Japanese cherry trees - an unusual visual extravaganza in Thailand's otherwise humid climate. It is also a prime tea growing region populated by Chinese immigrants, which gives it a tourist appeal.
Chedi Boromathat in Mae Slong enjoys excellent views of the Myanmar forntier.
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Mae Salong has an interesting history, having been chosen as a place of refuge by a significant number of Chinese Kuomintang (KMT) soldiers who fled from the communist regime in 1949. Today, there is still a large Yunnan Chinese population, imparting a strong cultural influence to the town. Chinese temples are scattered through the area, and many of Mae Salong's shops offer Chinese specialties such as Chinese jade, preserved fruit, dried mushrooms, herbs and wines; while restaurants serve predominantly Southern Chinese cuisine. Architecture, too, is typically Chinese, giving the town its own distinct appearance.
On the hill above the town is a rather distinctive and new chedi - named Boromathat, built in honour of the late Princess Mother. From here you can gaze out across mountainous frontier which was, ten years ago, off-limits due to the area being under the contol of the notorious opium baron Khun Sa.
The town's mountainside location not only means that it is blessed with a crisp, cool climate, but also endows it with incredibly lovely views across its alpine-like landscape. The drive to Mae Salong winds its way up a breathtaking mountain pass, and the experience of getting there is just as enjoyable as the destination itself.
Tea growing is the essense of Mae Salong.
Tea is Mae Salong's most important crop and a variety of local and imported strains are cultivated on mountain terraces. Tea shops are a trademark feature of Mae Salong, and a pleasant pastime for visitors is to wile away the hours in one of these atmospheric establishments, sipping away at a favourite brew. Fruit growing is also a popular agricultural practice, and the area is famed for its deliciously sweet peaches and lychees.
The nearby Akha and Lisu settlements use Mae Salong as a profitable market base from which to sell their wares, and you can choose from a good selection of traditional local handicrafts here.
From early January, Mae Salong and the surrounding region comes alive with the advent of gorgeous cherry blossoms, adorning the trees that flourish in Mae Salong's clear mountain air. The Sakura Route is the name given to a four-kilometre stretch of road leading to the town that literally glows with pink flowers at this time of year, an ideal season to visit Mae Salong.
Mae Salong is situated almost 80kms from Chinag Rai, and can be accessed from the city in approximately two hours by bus or songteaw. From Chiang Rai, take a bus headed for Mae Sai and get off at Pasang. From there, take a taxi to Mae Salong.
Description : A Chinese (Kuomintang) village set in beautiful mountains scenery with tea, coffee & fruits plantations
Comments : From the minorities point of view, out of a scale of 5, this place would score 6 : 95% of the population are Yunnan Chinese and the rest is composed of tribes people (Akha, Lisu, Lahu)
What to do ? Test your Chinese skills / Sip Chinese tea / Explore the surroundings villages : there are plenty of trails to choose from / Spend a day on a horse (B400) / Watch kids play football near the market (why not join them ?) / Get up the stairs to Phra Borom That for a good view of the surroundings / Continue up on the concrete road for a beautiful & peaceful sunset / Degust Yunnan food / Relax & enjoy !
What you may not like ? Not being here at the nicest season (winter, December to January, when the tea leaves are collected by tribes people in traditional costume) / The ugly houses among the superb natural setting / The apparent poverty of the tribes people which contrast with the apparent wealth of the Chinese / About the horse trek, not having the freedom to go where you wish to go and stop where you wish to stop / The Akha ladies who insist to fix a bracelet on your wrist even so you keep telling them you do not wish to buy anything nor take them in photo / After fighting the stairs, finding the temple's doors close (it actually open only in rare occasions) / Where there are Chinese, there are karaoke ! / The lack of "cheap" accomodation /
How long ? You would need a couple of days to walk it all!
Where to stay ?
Akha Maesalong Guesthouse (053 765103), from songthaew stop, go toward tha ton, pass Gold Dragon Inn, road going up on your right / Rooms 100 / HW / Go there for the huge & cozy teak rooms and because a guidebook discourage travelers to go there so it is quite empty / What you may not like: the poor mattress, the noise from the road.
Shin Sane (765026), next to the above / Rooms in house 100, bungalows w. HW shower in garden 300 / HW / Restaurant / Go there to follow the crowd but, truly, the rooms aren't as nice as the above.
Gold Dragon Inn (765009), on main road / Rooms or bungalows w. HW shower 200(1) or 300(2) / Much nicer than the above bungalows and even cheaper if alone... Where to eat ? Plenty of small Chinese restaurants serve noodle & basic rice dishes (some even got baozi)
Bank ? There is one in town. Closes at 3pm.
Internet ? No, not yet... But one was reported at Ban Basang (B25 per hour) so if you are waiting for a bus... Backpacker's Tips : Tam Chiwai, Hong Kong (Sept 00)
« A nice little village but I think it is a bit overrated. Nothing special morning market. A tea factory nearby: you can see the procedure to make tea. You can do trekking around the area through Hin Teak as far as to Mae Klaem, a very very small mountain village at the Burma border (actually there is no border). Mostly Lisu, Ahka and Chinese live in that area. Sometimes if you look closely you will find some poppy flower in the countryside.»
Leave Mae Salong ?
Transport really become apparent at 8am only. To Mae Sai, a direct truck will leave at 8 (B60, 1.5 hrs). After, it will depend on the demand. Songthaew go only to Ban Basang (B50, 1 hour) in theory regularly from around 8 to around 14 (more later if people). In Ban Basang, buses pass regularly to Mae Sai, Chiang Saen or Chiang Rai (B10).
Going in the other direction to Tha Ton, yellow songthaew also depart regularly from around 8 to around 15 (B25, 45mn) to the turn off. From there, songthaew go to Tha Ton regularly in the morning (B20, 40mn). Bus Schedules :
To |
Price |
Class |
Duration |
Time |
Nb |
Freq. |
Ban Basang |
50 |
songthaew |
1 |
8 to 14 |
a few |
40mn |
Mae Sai |
60 |
truck |
1.5 |
8 |
1 or more |
na |
Tha Ton Turn off |
25 |
songthaew |
45 |
8 to 15 |
a few |
40mn |
Notes: To Ban Basang, more if people, then change to Mae Sai or Chiang Saen / To Tha Ton turn off, more if people, then change to Tha Ton
The trip to Mae Sai : B60 / 1.5 hrs
I had been once again misinformed: I showed up at 6:40 to get a 7am songthaew to Ban Basang but was told the first available transport would go at 8 only. And no possibility to hitch so early... So I waited for the direct truck to Mae Sai. Sitting in the back is definitively the best way to enjoy the spectacular scenery (inside seats are reserved for the ladies anyway) but wear your pullover ! And as soon as you reach the highway, put on another one as speed increases to light speed !
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